Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
